Monday, June 30, 2008

Day 5 Hanging out in Cizur Menor


Temperature: the same as yesterday

Mood: Woke up crabby but later quite grateful

The alberque at Cizur Menor is so beautiful. It was a huge garden with a pond filled with exotic fish and a couple of turtles. The rooms are separated according to gender as well as are the bathroom. Its all very clean and well- decorated. They even provided blankets.

The best thing about the alberque is the woman who runs it. More on her later.

Again, more pilgrims to hang out with last night. There was the dutch couple in their early 60s who are biking their way from Rotterdam all they way to A. Compestela. The woman told me that this is the beginning of their 5th week on their bicycles. Another Austrian couple in their early 50s who were just beginning their journey. The man is a middle school teacher like me and we traded anecdotes about the classroom.

I slept solidly for about 10 hours. I was so tired. But when I woke up I had these really painful blisters up and down both feet. I could barely walk to the bathroom let alone head out on my planned 15 mile journey.

I managed to get up and sit out on the garden when la duena (the owner) sat down next to me. She looked at my blisters and said I need to spend another day at the alberque. Then she brought out her first aid kit (a huge box filled with any kind of blister medication imaginable) and kindly treated my blisters. My gosh, what a saint!!!

Then she explained to me her vision of the journey of the El Camino. She sees each group of pilgrims that descend upon her alberque as a drawing of sorts. Or a puzzle made up of a drawing with each pilgrim being one piece. In this drawing, she felt my piece really didn´t fit. It wasn´t good or bad, it just was. And while we all got along socially, the other pilgrims were going at it in a very different pace with different agendas.

She saw my blisters as a way for me to slow down. Wait for the next group of pilgrim who are coming and with whom I´d have a much better fit.

So this lovely duena was my nurse, sage and hostess - all at once. I´m really grateful to her.

Now to rest.

Day 4 Larrasoana to Cizur Menor


Temperature: cool in the morning, quickly heating up to 80s by mid afternoon

Mood: Rested and social

Last night I made it to Larrasona about 5pm and finally got to hang out with other pilgrims. We were all staying at the ¨refugio or alberque which is basically made up of one large room and one large bathroom. If you haven´t done it before, its an interesting experience to share a huge room filled with bunk beds with complete strangers. Some refugios have two rooms for men and women, but not this one. Also the bathroom - get this - we shared this one too! Strange to see a 60 year old woman getting into a toilet stall as a 16 year old boy is brushing his teath. Hey, but we are all kindred spirits on the road. In the end, it was all really easy to get used to.

I loved last night because I spent several hours hanging out with a young couple from Cataluna and a another 30 something guy from Chicago. We were all speaking castillano, a second language for all of us. We had dinner, shared some wine, laughed, hung out.

I got up this morning at 6am and started my daily journey. It was sad to say ¨buen camino¨ to my new friends as I knew that I probably wouldn´t see them again - all of us travelling at different speeds. But I do sincerely wish them a buen camino and that they safely reach A. Compestela in one piece.

I thought I´d have to walk alone again but God brought me a travelling companion for the day. Her name is Valarie, she´s French, and spoke English very well. Valarie is amazing. Her left leg has a pronounced limp and her left arm is curled into itself. Plus, her right eye was permanently shut. Although she walked a little slowly, she trudged along quite valiantly. Everyone who meets her is blown away.

We talked about so many things as we walked together. She even sang me a few Edith Pilaf melodies. We stopped for lunch, talked about the existence of God, our jobs, ex-boyfriends (you know the conversation is going to come around to that), our families, etc.

After about 6 hours of hanging out together, Valarie told me about what she termed as her disabilities. Valarie is 36 years old and about 12 years ago she had been in a horrible car accident. She had been in a coma for about 3 weeks and when she came out of it she had been left temporarily paralized on her left side.

And, here I was thinking of the blisters forming on my heels! What a joke that is. Gosh, in meeting her I was so inspired. She plans on walking the entire journey to A. Compestela. No cheating - no taking a bus to Burgos or Leon, no cabs through the big cities. Nothing. And she said that the trip will take as long as it takes, even if it takes her a couple of months

God sends us agents who speak and live his message. All we have to do is pay attention. I thank God for bringing Valarie into my path so early in my journey.

It was hard to say goodbye to her in Pamplona. By 3pm she had enough walking and needed her rest so she decided to stay in the local alberque. I continued on to the final destination point of the day´s journey - Cizur de Menor- about 6 kilometers outside of Pamplona.

Of course, I wish her a very Buen Camino. I know I´ll see her again.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Day 3

Day 3

Temperature: Clear but windy in the morning. Sunny and warm in afternoon

Mood: Well rested and adventurous.

Got up this morning about 7 am ready to start the journey. But first, to look for a bar for breakfast. Stumbled upon a little hole in the wall where there were other pilgrims - It was about 8 am and they had already walked from Roncesvalles (about 10 miles) Of course they were big strapping Spanish dudes who looked like they could have they could definitely take on the bulls in Pamplona. We chatted a bit about the journey, how many days the hope to take them (like 20 instead of the normal 35). But of course!!). Nice guys and I wished them well.

Then I picked up my backpack and began my take off. There are two ways you can get to the next refugio for the night - follow the freeway or follow the wooded paths that are marked with a seashell and a yellow arrow (these are the signs that mark the El Camino de Santiago).

Okay, let me explain the paths - imagine if you will these quaint backroads that often times lead past pastorial scenes. Many times their are sheep crossing your way, or some beautifully white cows laying lazily in the grass. The paths themselves can be muddy or stoney. Often times they reduce to fine lines just wide enough for your shoe. Othertimes they are made up of straight hills. The paths are nice but watch out for that seashell, otherwise you´ll be doing some serious backtracking!!!

I began on the wooded path - after some fellow pilgrims whistled at me that I was going the wrong direction (actually I was headed for the highway). Gamely, I decided to follow them and they quickly disappeared - again strong stapping guys. Lots of glorious paths where I was taking lots of pics. I kind of fell into a bit of trance just follow path after path - but after about 45 minutes, the path slowed to nothing. Oh boy - I realized that I must have gone the wrong way.

Okay, I reminded myself, God wants you to learn early about the importance of paying attention. So I retraced my steps and 45 minutes later I learned that I took the wrong way, way in the beginning. So - back on to the freeway where I´m sure not to get lost.

Silly me. I´ll try those paths again, no doubt. But when alone, I think it´ll be the boring freeway.

Okay - I´ve got 5 more kilometers to go before I make Larrasoana (check the map below). I better take off.

Hasta la proxima

Andrea

Day 2



Temperature: Rainy

Mood: Disappointed at first then elated

Well, I woke up this morning thinking, Oh Boy, I´m going to start the day at 6:30 and begin my first day of this journey with the other pilgrims. Instead, pouring down rain. And other pilgrims were taking off anyway! Of course, they brought rain gear. Thinking of only sunny Spain I failed to bring along rain jackets, etc. I felt like a tourist in San Francisco during the summer!

So..... off to the owner of the hostal I went, asking to stay another night. He and I spoke the night before with a couple of other pilgrims and the importance of starting the journey with optimistism. He informed that the pension was ¨completo¨no other rooms. But he had an idea.

He´d lend me his rain jacket (a very expensive one indeed) and that I can walk to the next town and buy a new one (no stores in Roncesvalles) and hand it off at his mother´s house. How nice of him! So I started off on my journey (although all on my own - all the other pilgrims had left by then). Found his mom´s place, dropped off his jacket and bought a rather costly windbreaker at the local ferretaria (plumbing store - yeah, I know).

Its interesting being in rural Spain on your own. On one hand, I felt a bit vulnerable but on the other way proud of myself. Plus I talked to God a whole lot which does so much for the soul.

I walked about 12 miles or so in total and got into another small village and found another hostal. I´m hoping to gain some ground and find the major stop on the pilgrimage route and stay with other pilgrims tomorrow night.

Hasta pronto.
Andrea

P.S. Still can´t find a computer with a usb port. I hope to download pics very soon.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Day One








Date 6-26-08

Temperature Pleasant - low 70s with slight breeze

Mood: A little hesitant but optimistic

I arrived in Roncesvalles last night at about 6:30 pm. I was fried or hecho polvo (made of dust) by the time I arrived. Yesterday was the last day of the student tour and my poor kids, the other teacher and I had to be up at 3 am so that they could catch their flight back to San Francisco.! Yes, nightmarish, but doable.

We had a great time through Spain however. I have plenty of photos but no USB port on this public computer! I´ll be uploading as soon as possible.It was hard to say goodbye to my group especially since we were together pretty much 24-7.

The bus ride to Pamplona from Madrid takes about 5 hours. Pamplona is a pleasant city, not too urban but with plenty of cafes and movida (night life). As you know, the running of the bulls will be happening on July 6th. The whole city is preparing for it with tons of outdoor stalls and guys walking around with their white shirts and red scarves around their neck.

A more adventurous traveller might try to plan their trip to coincide with the big bull-running, but that won´t be me! Although Pamplona is part of the El Camino de Santiago I try to avoid huge crowds. Especially crowds that are trying to make their big escape all at once!


I took another bus to the established beginning of the El Camino the town of Roncesvalles. It´s really just a small village (about 10 quaint hotels, the pilgrim hostal and the church make up the place) Upon arriving I had a decision: turn left to go the refugio for pilgims or right to a nice 3 star inn. I turned right. Hey - one last evening of luxury before beginning my journey.

I slept for 10 hours straight. I needed that after getting up at 3 am. Ohhh, so restful.

I decided to stay the day today and get myself in order after spending some 10 straight days with teenagers. I loved our student trip but dealing with adolescents can be stressful at times and exhausting. So a day of just rest and relaxation was in order. Time to email, write in my journal, take pictures, pick up my pilgrim credential, go to pilgrim mass, take a short hike and meet other pilgrims.

Great day so far.

Ciao for now.

Andrea

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Camino Frances


Hello everyone,

Welcome to my blog! For my first entry, I thought I´d send you a map of my impending journey. I´m doing the Camino Frances - the route at the top of the map. I´m now in Roncesvalles which is number 43 in the far right corner. I decided against starting in France (thought I´d skip hiking up the pyrenees and enjoy the view on the way down). Anyway, Roncesvalles is considered the Spanish starting point and I´m good with that.

Hope you are all doing well. I hope the next public computer will have a USB port and I´ll be sure to download some pictures.

Friday, June 6, 2008

The journey of the El Camino

Hello All,

You can double click on the map to see where I´m heading. Started off in Roncesvalles to the east and will end up in Santiago de Compostela in the west.

Ciao for now,
Andrea

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